Samsung Washer LC or LE Error Code: Leak or Water Level Problem

Fix soonUpdated Checked against Samsung US Support

Also shown or searched as: LE, LC1, 1 LC, 1E, 1C, 1 1C

On a Samsung washer, LC (also LE, LC1, 1E or 1C) is the water level or leakage error: the washer senses moisture where it should not be, or its water level sensor has a problem. Look for a small leak, check the hoses for kinks and the drain hose holder, then run an empty cycle to check for suds.

What to try first

Safety: If water has pooled near the outlet or the washer's power cord, switch off the washer's circuit breaker before you unplug it or step into the water.

  1. 1

    Search for a leak, even a slow one

    Pull the washer out if you can. Check the floor beneath it, both ends of each hose and the small rubber washers inside the hose ends. A front loader can drip a little from the door after you open it; Samsung says that is normal, and only drips with the door shut count. If you find a leak, fixing it clears the code.

  2. 2

    Fold back the door seal (front loaders)

    Run your fingers around the rubber seal and peel back its fold. Take out any hair, thread, coins or small items, and look for tears. A torn seal needs service.

  3. 3

    Straighten the hoses behind the washer

    Make sure neither the supply hoses nor the drain hose is bent or squeezed between the washer and the wall.

  4. 4

    Put the drain hose holder back and keep the hose end up

    Leave the clamp that fixes the drain hose to the back of the washer in place; if its screw is gone, Samsung says any screw that fits will do. Keep the end of the hose up off the floor and loose in the standpipe, no more than 8 inches down and never sealed tight.

  5. 5

    Rinse out leftover detergent with an empty cycle

    Start a cycle with no clothes, detergent or softener and watch for foam. If it foams, repeat until a cycle runs clean, then see whether the code comes back. From then on use HE detergent only and stay under the MAX line in the drawer.

  6. 6

    Reset the power if everything is dry

    If there is no water anywhere, switch the washer off at the breaker or unplug it, wait one minute, restore power and try a cycle.

Most likely causes of LC

  1. 1. A small leak at a hose, a hose washer or the door seal (most common)

    Drips or damp patches under the washer or at either end of a hose, or a tear or trapped debris in the rubber door seal. Samsung says even one hair or a thread caught in the seal can let water out.

  2. 2. Water siphoning away through the drain hose (common)

    The drain hose is pushed far down the standpipe, sealed into it, or its end hangs low or rests on the floor. The floor stays dry, but water leaves while the washer is still filling.

  3. 3. The drain hose holder was taken off (common)

    The clamp that holds the drain hose to the back of the washer, or its screw, is missing. Samsung says removing it can make the washer drain on its own and show LC.

  4. 4. Excess suds from too much or non-HE detergent (common)

    Foam shows up in a cycle run with nothing in the drum and no detergent added.

  5. 5. A kinked supply or drain hose (common)

    The washer was pushed back against the wall recently, and a hose is folded or pinched behind it.

  6. 6. A failed water level sensor or its wiring (less common)

    No leak, no foam and no hose problem, yet the code keeps returning. 1E or 1C on the display points this way.

When to call a pro

  • There is no leak and no foam, yet the code keeps coming back. That is the point where Samsung says to request service.
  • The door seal is torn, or a hose connection on the washer itself is cracked.
  • The holder that clamps the drain hose to the back of the washer is missing. Samsung says that needs service.
  • Water is coming from inside the cabinet and you cannot see where.

What a LC repair costs

$100–$250

HomeGuide's 2026 national range for replacing a washer pressure switch, the part that senses the water level, parts and labor. A torn door seal costs more: HomeGuide puts a rubber seal or gasket at $275 to $600. Re-seating a hose or flushing out suds costs nothing; minimum service fees run $70 to $130.

Source

One code, two kinds of trouble

Samsung's US code list groups 1E, LE, 1C, LC, LC1, 1 1C and 1 LC as one water level or leakage error and describes it two ways: moisture is detected where it does not belong, or the sensor itself has a problem. The homeowner checks are the same for every code in the group.

Samsung's owner's manuals split the meaning more finely. In the WF42H5500 front-load manual, LE means the washer tried to fill but never reached the proper water level, while 1E means the water level sensor is not working properly. The WA50M7450 top-load manual pairs LC (a water level problem) with 1C (the sensor). So LC and LE lean toward water going missing, and 1E and 1C lean toward the part that measures it.

LC with a dry floor

Plenty of people check under the washer, find nothing and decide the code must be wrong. Water can leave without touching the floor. If the drain hose sits too deep in the standpipe, makes an airtight seal there, or hangs too low, water siphons out while the washer is still filling, and the level never comes up.

Samsung ties this directly to the code: taking off the clamp that holds the drain hose to the back of the washer may cause it to drain by itself and show LC or 4C. Samsung's Caribbean page gives a matching check for LC and LE, telling owners to make sure the end of the drain hose is not resting on the floor.

Why the washer drains and ignores the Power button

The WF42H5500 manual notes that when LE or 1E appears, the washer drains for 3 minutes and the Power button does not respond during that time. That is part of how the washer handles the error, not a second fault. Let the drain finish before you pull the washer out to check the hoses.

Lookalike codes: 1E and IE, LC and OE

Two near-matches send people to the wrong advice. Samsung lists IE, with a letter I, alongside SF as a system error, a different fault from 1E with the number one. And OE or OC means roughly the opposite of LC: too much water in the washer, which Samsung covers under its overflow error.

How detergent ends up behind a leak code

Samsung says that using too much detergent, or non-HE detergent even once, can leave residue that contributes to leaks and leak errors. That is why its LC checklist includes an empty cycle. If foam appears with nothing added, old detergent is the suspect, and replacing parts will not fix it.

What a technician will check

  • The water level sensor (a pressure switch) and the thin hose that links it to the tub.
  • Hoses and joints inside the cabinet, including the hose from the tub to the drain pump.
  • The tub and the door seal for cracks or tears.
  • The wiring between the sensor and the control board.

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Questions people ask about Samsung LC

Can I keep using my Samsung washer with an LC code?

Not until you know where the water is going. If a hose or the door seal is leaking, every load puts more water on the floor. If the checks turn up nothing and the code stays, book service rather than running more loads.

Why did LC show up right after I moved the washer?

Moving a washer is when hoses get folded behind it, hose ends loosen, and the drain hose slips deeper into the standpipe or off its holder. Go back over those three things before anything else.

How much does it cost to fix an LC error?

Often nothing, if the cause is a loose hose, a low drain hose or old suds. A failed water level sensor runs $100 to $250 installed by HomeGuide's figures, and a new door seal $275 to $600.

Sources